I have the motor just about buttoned up, yet I am still dealing with the oil pump. See, the problem with these VW type 4 engines is that the oil pumps go to crap if the engine isn't proficiently maintained. You will have idle shaft movement and then excess play in the gears, which causes low and erratic oil pressure. Not a good thing for an air cooled engine. One company, Melling, does make a new replacement oil pump, but at $300, I don't think so. You can have one "rebuilt", but the problem is finding a good core to use, which will cost you anywhere from $40-60. THEN, you have to send that core in, along with @$75 to get it fixed. So now you have between $115-135 into a new/used oil pump.
What most guys these days are doing is converting to a type 1 oil pump. In order to make it work, you have to change your case studs, they have to be @3/8" longer. Then you have to machine the two post on the rear of the oil pump, in order to clear the camshaft face and the camshaft attaching bolts. After you have done that, you have to press the drive gear further onto the shaft, so that you have proper clearance to the outer face of the pump. You then use a type 1 oil pump cover which you'll have to cut back the drivers side, upper corner, in order to clear a post in the case.
Here is where MY problem comes in. The oil pump of choice for they type 1 to type 4 conversion is a 26mm Schadek aluminum oil pump. Schadek pumps are now made in Brazil, and have been notorious for being machined too small. They pumps are designed to be a slight tension fit, so that the inlet/outlet ports are sealed tight against the case. My pump is one of the crap ones. It's outer diameter is @.006" smaller than the diameter of the bore in the case, meaning there is a clearance fit. That mean that the pump with suck air, along with oil...not good. I have been working with a couple of vendors in trying to find a good pump. What a pain in the ass. But, they have been good with helping me out.
After the oil pump fiasco, all that is left is attach the oil cooler, the engine tins, the heater boxes, plug wires, cooling fan/housing, and carb linkage. Woo hoo!
Here are a couple of picts to hold you over...
What most guys these days are doing is converting to a type 1 oil pump. In order to make it work, you have to change your case studs, they have to be @3/8" longer. Then you have to machine the two post on the rear of the oil pump, in order to clear the camshaft face and the camshaft attaching bolts. After you have done that, you have to press the drive gear further onto the shaft, so that you have proper clearance to the outer face of the pump. You then use a type 1 oil pump cover which you'll have to cut back the drivers side, upper corner, in order to clear a post in the case.
Here is where MY problem comes in. The oil pump of choice for they type 1 to type 4 conversion is a 26mm Schadek aluminum oil pump. Schadek pumps are now made in Brazil, and have been notorious for being machined too small. They pumps are designed to be a slight tension fit, so that the inlet/outlet ports are sealed tight against the case. My pump is one of the crap ones. It's outer diameter is @.006" smaller than the diameter of the bore in the case, meaning there is a clearance fit. That mean that the pump with suck air, along with oil...not good. I have been working with a couple of vendors in trying to find a good pump. What a pain in the ass. But, they have been good with helping me out.
After the oil pump fiasco, all that is left is attach the oil cooler, the engine tins, the heater boxes, plug wires, cooling fan/housing, and carb linkage. Woo hoo!
Here are a couple of picts to hold you over...
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